Steve Anderson

Scotland 2012

Page 4

September 2012

to their own, I personally was glad to be out of the weather.

       There are a series of small lochs on this road and I spent a fine day on one of them heaving out ½ pound wild trout which were as beautiful and perfect as they were feisty.

 

Gairloch -  Wester Ross (3 nights)

       Gairloch was also recommended to me by my friend from Dunvegan, and it was the one minor disappointment in his long list of suggestions, one thing it did have going for it was ‘Violet’. Violet was a small and somewhat previously loved caravan on the site located in Gairloch, for £15 per night you get leak free, collapse free caravan luxury, which is exceptional value and allows for a good kip even in a storm, which is pretty much what I had. If Violet was not chained to the ground god knows where I would have woken up.

       The foul weather gave me a day off from doing stuff so I wasted most of it trying to fix an e-mail issue I was having with my laptop (I just couldn’t help myself), and had an early sharpener or 2 before retiring to Violet for supper and bed.

       Gairloch does have a nice sandy beach 3 miles from town, and I had a good ride to Rubha Reidh (pronounced Rua ray and I think might mean red head, which might be the Gallic derivation of the name Rory, just a thought). On my way back there was a small Inn at Melvaig, which on entering looked like a museum, it was home to an eccentric collection of old signs, toy boats, paintings and racks and racks of old records, the owner apparently has 7.5 tons of vinyl records in his personal collection , it was an extraordinary place with good beer and very good food, it had built a formidable reputation and booking was required to guarantee a seat. It was extraordinary considering the Inns remote location.

       Gairloch looked as though it was the founding father of the concrete house, there were very few of the pretty white washed cottages which adorn other seaside towns on the west coast, and while all of the people I met were friendly, (one was frankly quite bonkers,) Gairloch looked and felt a little tired. So with a heavy heart and already missing Violet I departed North.

 

Inchnadamph Lodge (2 nights)

       Inchnadamph  Hostel was a marvellous old Victorian cottage (the old Victorian type with about 30 bedrooms) and  which is now an independent hostel , where you can rough it in a bunk house with the hoards of Geology students who go there because there is pretty much an example of every type of rock in the UK located within crawling distance of the back door.

       I chose to leave the rock tappers to themselves and took a room at the top with a fantastic view through a large round window over Loch Assynt (a very famous fishing loch) and the view beyond towards Lochinver. Having unpacked I drove to Lochinver for a look around and a haircut, the look around was spectacular, if you go there, take the tiny single track road to Achiltibuie round the coast from Lochinver and strap yourself in for views which continue in intensity until the brain can no longer cope, or alternatively the fuel gauge reminds you to return to civilisation. The haircut did not happen, the one girl who trims the Lochinver locks was booked for a week and while it would have made a good excuse to stay I simply could not hang around that long.

The great thing about Glasgow is that if there is a nuclear attach it will look just the same afterwards. (Billy Connolly)

Gairloch

Diabaig

Inchnadamph Kirk